Day 1 in Wales 19th April 2021
The Mawddach Estuary at Penmaenpool” walk which is walk numer 10 in the guide book “Walks Around Dolgellau” published by Kittiwake. It was a Sunday and only one week into the lifting of restrictions in Wales after the Pandemic. Consequently there are still few tourists about due to the continuing closure of the coffee shops.
This Sunday the weather conditions were perfect for walking with light cloud cover, light winds and a temperature of 12 degrees.
From my lodging at the Bryn Melyn Artists Cottage I walked 200 yds along the main road in the direction of Barmouth and then crossed the estuary using the Penmaenpool Toll bridge. This costs 30p for a foot traveller at least during the periods when the toll booth is occupied, otherwise it would be free. The bridge was ondergoing some redecoration of it white and black paint scheme and was looking very smart. The roadway is constructed from railway sleepers and has a maximim weight limit of 2.5 tonnes. There are fine views from the bridge up and down the Mawddach Estuary.
The official start of the walk is the car park next to the George III hotel where there are toilets and an RSPB observation hut. The route instructions in the gude book are detailed and accurate for this walk, it is sufficient to not need a map and compass.
The first part of the walk leads SE away from the estuary and into low hills, initially with forest cover but eventually reaching open ground. One farm is passed on the route to the summit which has a fancy holiday lodge but also a rather charming old barn which is the “des res” for the farm sheep. The approach to the farm along a track has fine distant views of the Cadiar Idris ridge. After leaving the farm and negotiating the final steep but fiarly short hillside the summit is reached and this is an excellent viewpoint for the Mawddach Estuary below. There are unrestricted all round views including Cadiar Idris and the Arrans to the distant East. There is the inevitable mobile mast (new) and this marks the start of the descent which is mostly by rough tracks.
At the bottom of the descent the route joins the Afon Gwynant which then leads the walker back to the estuary. The path loops gently around the edge of the Coed Gwynant and passes some disused lime workings. At the estuary the route joins the old railway track which used to run from opposite Barmouth to Dolgellau in the hayday before the closure in the 1960s. Of course the tracks are gone but the foundations are straight and also quite hard under foot for the slighly weary walker who is nearing the end of his journey. There are a selection of picnic tables on this last 2 km leg and one of these provided a useful stopover for lunch. A couple of inquisitve Robins were entertaining and earned some food morsels.
Day 2 in Wales 20th April 2021
Today a tough walk in the Rhinogs. I started from the forest car park on the East side of the Rhinog range. This is reached by a single track lane that is a left turn off the A470 heading North a couple of miles past Coed y Brenin. As you drive the track away from the main road the Rhinogs dominate the skyline in front of you. Already the peaks of Rhinog Fawr on the right centre and Rhinog Fach next left (South) are obvious. These are divided by the valley of Bwlch Ardudwy which was cut out by a huge glacier during the last ice age.
Do not attempt this route in misty conditions unless very experienced with map and compass. Also, note that some of the important paths are not actually marked on the map.
From the car park I take the rough path directly ahead which crosses some wet ground and emerges near some dwellings. Then to the left and on a short way until the first sign post to Bwlch Tyddiad and a right turn. This section of path is through a delightful wood and by the side of a stream, finishing at a small but inviting waterfall. That is the end of the wood and I reach open ground where once the conifer forest extended to the base of the Rhinogs but which has been cleared for many years. There are signs of regrowth seeming with conifers again rather than preferred native species.
Now the path is onto Bwlch Tyddiad and heads gradually uphill to where the famous Roman Steps begin, not really Roman but a medieval packhorse trail through the mountain range. Before reaching the Steps an obvious path appears on the left through a gap in a broken wall. This is the start of the route proper onto Rhinog Fawr. The path now winds more steeply uphill using the lower slopes until the small Llyn Du is reached. From here some fine views back to the East are a reward plus time can be taken for the first well earned cup of tea of the day.
The challenge from Llyn Du is the wall which can be seen high on the opposite bank, it is possible to gain that by either side of the Llyn but the way to the left is more difficult and exciting. At least the low passage on this side has many rocky outcrops to negotiate with some big gaps and water below. Finally the wall is reached and a path appears through a narrow “door”. This path follows the wall below on the right and undulates around and slowly climbs the West side of Rhinog Fawr. After bearing away from the wall to round a hump a new path is reached on the right, the final route to the summit. This is open and a fairly gentle gradient by which the summit is now easily reached where a trig point and rough shelter exist.
